I was drawn to the game because it has such a potential low cost and after playing a test game and reading the fairly straightforward rulebook realised how much fun it was.
The designers of the game do not manufacture loads of parts you have to buy so you are free to use their recommended suppliers, make your own or use whatever you choose. The playing pieces are matchbox style cars (of which I already had a somewhat beaten-up collection from when I was young) and scenery and obstacles can be as simple as a few books and on your table or as involved as a full gaming setup.
Despite the gameplay being inclusive, funny and nuts at times, what I have really enjoyed is the free reign to use your imagination in choosing and modelling the vehicles. Having only played in the larger 28mm 'heroic' scale previously, it was also a nice change to paint something different. For some reason it has helped me feel more confident to try a range of painting techniques and I have included my first effort below.
My approach has been to create something I thought looked cool, and then pay the points cost accordingly WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) style. This has resulted in some less than tactically ideal vehicles but they have been great fun to play.
The Neck Stretch
Construction: My first attempt started as a Mercedes Limousine made by Majorette in 1:58 scale. I wanted to start with something a bit theatrical so I added some Warhammer Fantasy Dragon horns and skull. The bumper and wheel protectors are from an Italeri barricades set. The sod-off railgun on the top is 40K Tau.
The bone was basecoated dark brown and then layered bleached bone 95% coverage and then then the tips were given a skull white layer. The whole lot was then washed in gryphonne sepia.
The Railgun was basecoated in Mephiston red and progresses in thirds from red to yellow and finally white to give it the impression that the muzzle is glowing hot. The metal elements were boltgun metal with (seriously old-school) black ink. Inks are tricky to use but are a more extreme wash. They deepen shadow and are really effective in dulling the metallic paints which works really well on high detail surfaces like chainmail. I've found you can get a similar effect by drybrushing the metallic directly onto the black undercoat but its a shinier finish.
Decided to keep the blacked out windows as this was fitting for a limo.
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